Today we are staying in a little aberaque in a very small village that feels like it is in the middle of no where. There is no wifi here but they do have a computer you can use for a small charge. This is the first time I have typed on a computer in 12 days, how strange. Not a day went by that I was not on the computer at work and at home. I have learned to function from my iphone.
We woke up a little after 5:00 to much commotion in our muncipal abergay. Out room of 16 people were all up way before dawn and the lights were turned on at 5:45, We were up and out walking early because that was what everyone else was doing. It is like living with a herd. Communal living requires doing things together or as cooperatively as posible.
It was dark when we began walking, however we were with a group of 8 to help find the way and the brightness of the moon was very helpful. Out walk today was the easiest one we have had so far. It was most like my practice walks. We had resevations in a small alberque about 15 kilometers from Santa Domingo, but when we arrived at 11:00 in the morning and the alberque did not open until 1:30 we decided to keep walking. There was absolutely nothing else to do in the little village. The church was closed and there were no bars or restaurants. We sat in the square for a while and had a snack of chips and cheese and then decided to leave a note at the alberque and walk on another 4 kilometers. With all the pilgrims on the path this was very risky because it is difficult to get a place to stay without a reserrvation.
When we reached the next village it looked almost as deserted as the last, but 1 kilometer from the road was a very large sign that said alberque. We decided to take a risk and go there. You hate to walk any more than you have to and we did not know anything about this place. The sun was beginning to get hot and we were delighted to find that they had room Everything is on one floor, which is unusual and we have only 4 people in our room. What a treat. They have left the top bunk for our luggage and so no one has to sleep on the top bunk and we have a place to put our stuff. This can be a real challenge in some places. We are packed into some rooms like sardines, which by the way are pretty tasty here in Spain. The cost of the bed is only 5 Euros which is half what we have been paying and dinner is only 8 Euros. They serve a communal dinner which we are grateful for since there is really nowhere to go around here. They sell sandwiches and drinks for lunch. For 3 Euros Angie and I were able to share a large sandwich and get a beer for only 1 Euro. What a deal. I have drank more beer on this trip then every before. After walking in the sun for hours it is the most refreshing drink!
There is a yard behind the alberque with tables. We sat outside and had our lunch and visited with 2 women from Canada. We shared our alberqay stories and it turns out I am not the only one to loose my pants.
Yesterday as we sat in the Municipal Alberque waiting for a room we saw many people coming in with bandaged feet, legs and knees. Many were limping. We call it the walking wounded. It would be easy to turn this into a march rather than a spiritual journey. There is a book that recommends the distance to walk each day and places to stay by John Brierley. Some have turned it into their bible. Some are driven by a schedule based on they have to return. Angie has helped me to see that the journey is not about just the steps taken, but it is about what is seen and experienced. If we need to take a bus or a cab to make-up time or give our bodies rest we are going to do this. She is helping me not to be so driven. Many are walking, walking, walking and not taking time to visit the many sights along the way or to spend time with local people and pilgrims. Angie being so fluent in Spanish has created a space for us to be with the local people which has been a wonderful blessing.
Hey did I mention that when I type on the computer that every word comes up as spelled wrong because the program is in Spanish? I can´t get a break with checking spelling and grammar.
My lesson for the day is to look for life in the middle of the desert and trust that it will be there.
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